The Raimat Abadia, Costers del Segre, Spain (2010) is a Chardonnay/Albariño blend coming from the north-east corner of Spain. Pale straw in colour with lots of tropical fruits and floral notes on the nose. It’s crisp and refreshing in the mouth (green apples), and has a good level of acidity. Although quaffable at first, its tartness – by way of underripe grapes and green leafy vegetables – becomes slightly unpleasant after a while, and it feels unbalanced and too dry. It really needs food. Could easily overpower a delicate fish dish, so pair it with a paella as they suggest (or perhaps Thai). Not totally convinced. 5/10

Not one to be judged by its label, the Stone Rock, Bordeaux (2010) is a serious French sauvignon masquerading as a cheap Aussie white (screw cap, minimal labelling, Down Under name). More Old World than New with its clean, fresh scent and lingering citrus on the nose. A continuing citrus-feel (lemon, grapefruit) in the mouth with possible touches of asparagus and green pepper as well. There’s nothing showy about this: it’s subtle, and well-priced at £8. Heed the recommendation to serve it well chilled. (Incidentally, went perfectly with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s lovely recipe of baked asparagus, halloumi and new potatoes.) 7.5/10