On the whole, the Michelin guide is a safe place to consult when looking for somewhere to eat out. For a consistently good meal, forget twos and threes, and stick with the cheaper, humbler one star. Undoubtedly, the ‘little red book’ gives preference to European food, so when South West Indian seafood specialist Trishna gained a star (and subsequent blog appeal) in October 2012 for its foodie fireworks, I felt I ought to give it a try. Continue reading
On the eighth day, God created brunch. And He saw that it was good. And He loosened his belt, and He rested. Brunch is on the rise, it seems. Neither breakfast, nor lunch, it caters for those like me – the interminably picky. What better way to start the weekend than with an assortment of breakfast/lunch items that really should never be seen together on a plate. But whilst everyone’s at it, brunch always leaves me wanting more. Metaphorically. Could Alan Yau‘s Naamyaa Cafe (of Wagamama/Hakkasan/Yautacha/etc fame) sate the insatiable? Continue reading
It might strike you as a little surprising that someone would open their new restaurant right opposite their old one. . . but when that someone is Jason Atherton, you don’t need to worry. Pollen Street Social was the Big Daddy of 2012 eating for me, so I certainly wasn’t going to turn down an invitation to Atherton’s latest venture, Little Social. Forget the sleek, chic PSS. Little Social is all about comfort: tucking your serviette into your collar, drinking a bottle of the excellent house wine, and getting stuck in to some hearty food. Continue reading
I don’t like Mondays just as much as the Boomtown Rats. Nor does the restaurant industry. Everyone’s back to work, the markets are closed, and no one goes out to eat. Indeed, the best places are often shut at the beginning of the week. Not, however, The Square. I’d read praise for it as having “flawless” service, serving up “sophisticated” food, with Phillip Howard‘s restaurant being “the best of its type”. An excellent reputation demands high expectations. On the Monday I went, I experienced nothing to such acclaim. I have to ask: Where was our fantastic meal that everybody else is having? Continue reading
Whether you’re a lo
ver or a hater, you cannot deny that Gordon Ramsay has influenced some of the finest British chefs around. Without Ramsay there’d be no Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley, neither Angela Hartnett’s Murano, nor Jason Atherton’s Pollen Street Social. Now, however, each chef has left the Ramsay nest, and seems much the better for it. They’ve realised that the old dog has given up on the new tricks, and it’s time for them to shine. And indeed they do. This week there are no quips, no jibes, and no cynicism. Pollen Street Social is my favourite restaurant in London. Well, probably. Continue reading
November is a miserable month, isn’t it? The sun has kicked the bucket, it’s shuffled off this mortal coil. It is no more. You get the picture. You’d have thought it bold to open a tapas bar in London when two great Spanish restaurants reign. The Hart brothers’ Fino and Barrafina have, for years, fed the capital’s foodies with excellent Iberico ham, croquettas, and tortillas. However, Nemanja Borjanovic and Melody Adams have decided to brave the inclement weather and open a stylish Basque tapas place in Marylebone. Whilst the forecast at Donostia is generally sunny, there will be some wet spells here and there. No matter. A little drizzle won’t ruin your evening. Continue reading
The Raimat Abadia, Costers del Segre, Spain (2010) is a Chardonnay/Albariño blend coming from the north-east corner of Spain. Pale straw in colour with lots of tropical fruits and floral notes on the nose. It’s crisp and refreshing in the mouth (green apples), and has a good level of acidity. Although quaffable at first, its tartness – by way of underripe grapes and green leafy vegetables – becomes slightly unpleasant after a while, and it feels unbalanced and too dry. It really needs food. Could easily overpower a delicate fish dish, so pair it with a paella as they suggest (or perhaps Thai). Not totally convinced. 5/10
Not one to be judged by its label, the Stone Rock, Bordeaux (2010) is a serious French sauvignon masquerading as a cheap Aussie white (screw cap, minimal labelling, Down Under name). More Old World than New with its clean, fresh scent and lingering citrus on the nose. A continuing citrus-feel (lemon, grapefruit) in the mouth with possible touches of asparagus and green pepper as well. There’s nothing showy about this: it’s subtle, and well-priced at £8. Heed the recommendation to serve it well chilled. (Incidentally, went perfectly with Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s lovely recipe of baked asparagus, halloumi and new potatoes.) 7.5/10
Dishoom can be translated as that Bollywood sound effect heard when someone is punched. ‘Pow!’, in another word. This might seem a strange name for a restaurant, but when you walk through the door your nose is indeed hit by that wonderful aroma of gently-frying spices. If this isn’t enough on a Sunday morning to get your tastebuds going then I’m not sure what is. However, breakfast at home at a weekend is difficult to beat: eggs with a kiss, toast with a hug, and bacon crisped within an inch of its life – that’s mine please if anyone’s listening. But it’s still worth trying to beat it with a morning trip to an Indian restaurant, nonetheless. Hindus are well-known for their reverence and utmost respect for cows, to the extent that daily life can grind to a halt to ensure that the animals are wholly satisfied. It’s rather ironic, therefore, that at Dishoom diners are treated like cattle. Continue reading
Peruvian cuisine has crept up on the London restaurant scene with three recent openings in the past year; indeed, the whispered word on the lips of the online food brigade at the moment is that speciality from Peru – ceviche. The last time I had ceviche was a few years ago at The Ledbury; the dish was let down by its sharp citrus marinade and gelatinous texture. A huge disappointment for two star cooking. I’d been put off ever since. But being older and wiser, it was time to give ceviche another go. So of the three new Peruvian restaurants, we chose newest kid on the block, Lima, to tickle our South American tastebuds. And tickled they were. Continue reading
It was going to be a hard act to follow last week’s Corner Room, but if anywhere could stand up to its brilliance, it would be Gauthier. If Michelin-pomp isn’t for you, it’s somewhere to avoid, but previously I’d found the converted West End townhouse to be a welcome indulgence, serving consistently high-quality French cuisine with finesse. Once a year, the restaurant serves a two-for-one tasting menu, “to experience the full creativity of Alexis and his team the way he would want you to, but for a very special price”, said their email. And £35 each is a very special price for eight courses. You’ve heard the old adage that if something seems to good to be true, it probably is? This was no exception.
